They’re the great foundation debates – should we be using a cream or a powder and does that answer change with age? How do I deal with hot flushes and make-up longevity? And how to best combat pesky pigmentation? We asked Natio Make-Up Artist & National Training Manager, Christina Schroder to settle these questions (and more) once and for all.
• Why should we be using powder or creams?
Cream textures tend to look fresher, more dewy and luminous on the skin. When it comes to makeup for the mature customer, it’s less about covering up and more about adding definition to areas like brows, lip lines and apples of the cheek which tend to soften with age. There is still use for powders, just use them sparingly. They are great if you have issues with makeup lasting, however, you don’t necessarily need to put powder everywhere. You can just have a light dusting of a translucent powder down the centre of the face to reduce shine or use a little to set concealer under the eye if you have issues with creasing.
When it comes to eyes, don’t be afraid to use a mix of mattes and a little shimmer, but remember – pearlised/shimmery colours will tend to show the texture of the skin underneath, so it’s best to avoid them if you’re concerned about wrinkles.
• So, which makeup is best to smooth over wrinkles?
Lightweight formulations and creamy textures tend to be the best to soften the appearance of wrinkles. However, skincare is the most important part of the equation, because when you apply makeup, it instantly shows up the texture of the skin underneath. So a basic daily skincare routine, along with a few key treatment products twice a month will work wonders. A gentle exfoliator and a Hydrating Mask twice a month, along with hydrating serums daily, will help to keep skin plump, hydrated and glowing
• Is a cream or powder better when dealing with hot flushes?
Makeup can tend to ‘melt off’ during times of hot flushes, so an oil-free primer should assist with keeping your make up in place. The Pure Mineral Face Primer creates a smooth makeup base with a fabulous oil-free formula. Makeup looks fresh and lasts longer, giving you the confidence it’ll stay in place from day through to night. Lightweight textures are best, so I would suggest liquids or creams and a small amount of powder to set.
• What kind of makeup is better for touch-ups on the go?
The Natio Cleverstick is fabulous for its creamy texture and easy to use stick application. The coverage is buildable depending on your preference – also it won’t ever make a mess in your bag!
• What is the best way to combat shine?
You never want your face to look shiny so this can be combatted with a light dusting of translucent powder, or our new Blotting Papers which control shine without adding any powder. Creams should make you look luminous and radiant, but not shiny…
• What application method is best for creams or powders?
I use brushes for both creams and powders! It all comes down to practise when you’re not going to an event, so when the time comes you feel really comfortable with your tools. You also don’t need a lot of different brushes, but if you get the correct ones you’ll get a much nicer, more lightweight and targeted application. Natio uses high-grade synthetic hair for all brushes, so they can be used with liquids, creams and powder.
• Which is the best to cover pigmentation? Is it a combination of both?
It is a combination of both if you want maximum coverage, however it depends on what you’re covering. Sometimes applying heavy makeup on pigmentation can tend to draw more attention on the area. It’s best to get a consultant to try product on you, see how it wears and then make your choice. Also you may need to use a brush as applying products with your fingertips will set it in a heavier fashion, and it won’t look as natural.
• Spectacles constantly strip makeup from the nose area. What is the best makeup to combat that?
That’s tough! I would say less is more. Creamy textures will tend to slide off on areas where glasses sit and indent into the skin. A little powder/powder foundation or avoiding that area all together may be better.